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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2002 VW Gti 337 1.8t

I originally purchased this car for $6,300 with around 70,000 miles on it. As one of the reknown 337's it is 1 of only 1,500 ever made in the US (250 in Canadia). I'm sure the number has dwindled as I have seen many mashed up on ebay since their release in 2002. I plan to give my 337 the honor in power it deserves as a monument to the original US 1982 GTi (EA337). After a year of driving my gorgeous hot hatch as a stock GTi I decieded to start the long downhill roll towards perfection in modification. I will detail each current mod below, and highlight the build I am in the process of gethering parts for.

#1 EBC Redstuff Brakes Front/ Back
$200 (Front and Back)
-I was advised that EBC brakes, out of the UK, is the leading brand in compound technology and offered by far the best stopping power. After a couple months of use, I have to admit that the advice was spot on. Compared to the Hawk pads I previously had, these EBC brakes are of higher performance. Even on the stock calipers, I can feel a noticable differnece in grip on my rotors. They've saved me from a fair amount of bad situations. I would recommend them to ANYONE who has a car.

#2 APR R1 Diverter Valve
$140
-During the holiday sale of 2009 I picked up the APR R1 Diverter valve through www.ECSTuning.com. I went with APR because of their rep in the VAG market. With proven gains and a unique system incorporated into the Diverter Valve design, I am very pleased with the increased ease in my turbo spool. My previous DV had been malfunctioning because of a tear. I will soon Be upgrading the system and will be making the transition to a BOV, as I plan to make use of the popular HKS SQVIII.

#3 APR Stage 1 w/ 4 programs and Anti-Theft
$500
-With so many different brands competeing for the top slot in programming performance on the 1.8t, I was at a stand still with trying to decide who to go with. While in MN on a business trip I finally caught wind of APR's test program. I shot down to Further Performance in Minneapolis, MN and realized APR was having their APRil sale. Instead of getting the tester program, I splurged and went all out for the full tune. Can anyone vouch for making an unexpected purchase and end up having it be the best quick buy, in like, forever? I felt, and still feel, like my car is truly worth the title of performance machine. The tune was such a drastic diference that it had a smile on my face all the way through September. For a base buy on a stock 1.8t this was, by far, the BEST BANG FOR MY BUCK.

#4 Spectre P5 High Flow Cone Filter
$45
-Cold Air Intakes are not safe for the area I live in. Anything over 2 inches of rain will pool in my driveway and cause deep trouble. I opted to grab a BIG F'IN filter and strap it to the MAF housing. It works fantastic and is large enough to not throw codes because of the lack of tubing prior to the MAF sensor. I have it cradled by a modified exhaust hanger bolted to the existing stock airbox mount points. It has mobility when the engine bucks under heavy throttle. Not a bad custom setup for a fraction of the price kits are on the market for.

#5 EuroJet Turbo Inlet Pipe
$185
-Finally a mod that get's into engine building. For better flow to the tiny beast of a snail, I ran with EuroJet. Not only do they have an awesome name for the company, but their products have nothing but the BEST quality and performance on the market. A christmas gift to myself last year, I didn't hit the pain of this 4 hour DIY install until spring. After some cuts, bruises, and assistance from my lovely lady, I experienced the added benifit of smooth spooling. The increase in performance is noticable but slight. This mod has more to do with steady, smooth, flow through the intake system. It was worth the pain in my opinion.

#6 Hitachi E-Coil Upgrade w/ NGK BKR6E Spark Plugs
$150
-During the summer I noticed a problem occuring with misfires in the coil packs. After some searching, the Hitachi E-Coils sounded like a feasible and cost effective upgrade. ECS, again, was my store of choice and shipped out the Coils and set of plugs to my business travel location. I changed out the coils and plugs on a 30 minute lunch break in a mall parking lot. It's nice to have tools in your car. Holy Cow Batman did they make a differnece! Boost was stronger and hidden torque was regained. They look fancy without the engine cover as well. The added support of having bolt down coils puts my mind at ease when pulling wide open throttle. I know my ignition can handle what I need from it. Fantastic buy and would recommend to those with Coil issues looking to replace or upgrade them.

#7 Megan Racing 2.5" Downpipe w/ High Flow Catalytic Converter
$160
-Power is a goal best looked at from afar. I went cheap with this upgrade. I wanted temporary power gains to go stage 2 until my Big Turbo setup next year. I noticed after a day or two of driving that there is a rattle under hard torque. I assume this is from a frayed F'd up cat. Figures. I plan to cut out the cat and weld in a SS 2.5" pipe to make it a test pipe. Will detail this process when the time comes.

#8 10,000K HID Headlights w/ 10,000K HID Fogs
$350
-A focal point of my driving is night visibility. I like cruising winding back roads at dead hours of the night. For this, I opted to get some CRAZY BRIGHT headlights. I picked up some quality housings with glass lenses, incorporated angel eyes(which I don't really use), and upgraded both the low beam and fogs to 10,000K HID systems. They're beyond bright and make me feel like I can drive even the darkest nights at 130 mph. One of the classiest buys for my Dub yet.

#? I have other mods that escape my memory right now. Small stuff that doesn't make to much of a differnece in the performance of the vehicle.
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The thin red line represents the present from the future. The following is the build I am planning, and saving for. Call it radical and a sin to the 337 all you want. This machine, will be, mean. Please let me know if there is a supporting area I missed or something that would assits with the outlined mods.

Component work;

-EuroJet race series FMIC w/ powdercoated Icon and Brand
-Custom Eurojet IC piping w/ tornado red powdercoating
-EuroJet 3" Cat Back Exhaust w/ 4" Custom EuroJet Downpipe
-NOT SURE YET but Cams of some degree
-Supertech 1mm+ valves intake/ 1mm+ exhaust w/ titanium lifters, guides, springs, and retianers
-Integrated Engineering 19mm Connecting Rods
-ARP Head bolts
-Billet Precision Turbo 5557 (SP Compressor housing/ T3 divided V-band outlet [.63 A/R])
-Tial dual wastegates (side exit dump pipes)
-Custom EuroJet sidewinder twin-scroll tubular exhaust manifold
-Custom EuroJet high flow intake manifold
-4 bar FPR
-Bosch high pressure fuel pump
-Siemens 630cc injectors
-ECS hybrid oil pan
-Wavetrac LSD w/ ARP hardware
-Drive Shaft Shop racing axles
-Clutch Master stage 4 clutch w/ aluminum flywheel
-H&R Street performance coilovers S.S. (36525-1)
-H&R sway bars 26mm front/ 28mm rear
-H&R wheel spacers 25mm front/ 30mm rear
-Polyurethane bushing in EVERYTHING
-ECS stage 1R big brake upgrade
-ECS stage 3 big brake upagrade

Body work;

-Custom boser hood w/ turbo exposing bonnet (removable filter cover/ bonnet extender)
-Widened rolled fenders
-Shaved engine bay
-Shaved rub strips
-Shaved rear hatch release
-Shaved side skirts, chin valance, rear valance
-APR wind splitter
-APR canards
-APR GTC-200 spoiler
-Custom CF underbody diffuser
-Window tint 5% sides, 20% rear, 35% front

Accepting ideas and constructive critisizm. Please no, "That's retarded, why would you do that". You'll just get burned.

You're welcome. ^_^
 

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this is stupid

but seriously good luck on the build if you're doing canards just for the look more power to you, but if you are doing em for added down force I would probably add them dead last after you track the car around a bit to see if the're even needed, my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #7
this is stupid

but seriously good luck on the build if you're doing canards just for the look more power to you, but if you are doing em for added down force I would probably add them dead last after you track the car around a bit to see if the're even needed, my .02
Agreeded. The body modifications are more for dead last. I want to out perform every car in my hometown before I make it look like something out of the LeMans. Honestly, the build spread is mostly ideas and peices put together to form a project. I've always enjoyed the sporty sophisticated look of front splitters and canards but they may not be what is right for my build. We'll have to see when eveything comes together. I'm not too big on striaght speed either. I'm looking for something overly agile with crazy speed for AutoX.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Trying to decide if I want to get 19" rims for the full setup and keep the BBS RC's for track days. I've heard that for every inch larger the tire is, the higher your top speed is. At least thats what the team who has the US record for top speed in a GTi states. 207mph. Nuts. The 19"s would be for cruising and shows. Can we even manage 20"s on this chassis?
 

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This build thread needs pics..!!
 

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if your going for auto x you'd want a smaller/lighter wheel & tire setup with extreme focus on the stickiness of the tires
 

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Trying to decide if I want to get 19" rims for the full setup and keep the BBS RC's for track days. I've heard that for every inch larger the tire is, the higher your top speed is. At least thats what the team who has the US record for top speed in a GTi states. 207mph. Nuts. The 19"s would be for cruising and shows. Can we even manage 20"s on this chassis?
you can manage 20's its not hard... but if you you put anything higher then 18 it looks ****in stupid
 

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Looks good man!

When you go with the bigger wheels, you generally shrink the sidewall size to match the overall diameter of the stock wheels/tires, so I really doubt you'll increase your top speed that way. If anything, you're adding weight and will actually reduce your top speed, unless of course, you're going with crazy expensive lightweight wheels. I say stick with 18 inch max or go with really light 17s.

I reallllly recommend calling up RAImotorsport.com in Baltimore and talk to Ray (the owner). Tell him what you plans are and he will steer you straight on what to get for what you're trying to achieve. The number for the shop is 443-242-6436, ask for Ray. He's super cool and will take the time to talk to you about whatever questions you have. I had some unnecessary things picked out for my kit and he helped me streamline everything. Good luck!! :)
 

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agree

i would stop going to a shop if they ever told me that

i like to play stupid when i go to a shop. i want to c how much they know and how honest they are

only reason i go to a shop to do work on my car is if i dont have a tool to do the work
This x500
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks good man!

When you go with the bigger wheels, you generally shrink the sidewall size to match the overall diameter of the stock wheels/tires, so I really doubt you'll increase your top speed that way. If anything, you're adding weight and will actually reduce your top speed, unless of course, you're going with crazy expensive lightweight wheels. I say stick with 18 inch max or go with really light 17s.

I reallllly recommend calling up RAImotorsport.com in Baltimore and talk to Ray (the owner). Tell him what you plans are and he will steer you straight on what to get for what you're trying to achieve. The number for the shop is 443-242-6436, ask for Ray. He's super cool and will take the time to talk to you about whatever questions you have. I had some unnecessary things picked out for my kit and he helped me streamline everything. Good luck!! :)
Thanks man. I was saying that the bigger wheels would be more for looks and stance. Anything over 18 really impairs the overall top performance of any car as the tires become too small for any kind of good traction. It be like putting those stupid silly bands on your wrists. Who does that? I was just asking about the bigger wheels cuz of shows and such. Not really too interested in it.

Not sure if I have unnecessary parts on the build besides the obviously debated aerodynamics add-ons. Most of the engine mods and supporting mods are all kinda needed for the power I'm looking for. I'll probably have to obtain the Snow Methanol injector kit as well to prevent detonation with such high gains. It's gonna be a sick set up.

Just got done talking with EuroJet again. We'll be fabing the dual wastegates to dump direct out the drivers side fender. It'll be nasty sounding with the occasional blue lick of flames during big throttle spikes. YUMMY!

agree

i would stop going to a shop if they ever told me that

i like to play stupid when i go to a shop. i want to c how much they know and how honest they are

only reason i go to a shop to do work on my car is if i dont have a tool to do the work
I also agree. Shops should NEVER give fasle info. If they do, they're definately not the shop to continue going to. I try to stick to shops that have worked on mag spread cars. They have the highest ranked mechanics and know their stuff pretty well. I'm lucky to be going through "Further Performance" in MN. They're the guys who host Eurowerks every Summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you can manage 20's its not hard... but if you you put anything higher then 18 it looks ****in stupid
19"s aren't that bad on a GTi. I've seen a crazy sic pair of powdercoated White widened (11") BBS CH's on a semi-modded Tornado Red Mk5. Thing looked super dope.

For performance though, I almost think 17"s would be more effective. The added tire would ensure more stability and traction under hard cornering. If you've ever seen a burnout rip through a tire, it was most likely not enough tire to rim ratio to support the power. I was recommended to stay at or under 17" for anything over 400hp on a VW application. Sounds about right to me.
 

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19"s aren't that bad on a GTi. I've seen a crazy sic pair of powdercoated White widened (11") BBS CH's on a semi-modded Tornado Red Mk5. Thing looked super dope.

For performance though, I almost think 17"s would be more effective. The added tire would ensure more stability and traction under hard cornering. If you've ever seen a burnout rip through a tire, it was most likely not enough tire to rim ratio to support the power. I was recommended to stay at or under 17" for anything over 400hp on a VW application. Sounds about right to me.
Anything over 400wheel hp on a fwd car is stupid, you would need drag radials just to launch and tires at like 15 psi
 

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To each their own OP, but I just havent ever understood putting more money into a car than its worth when its your daily driver. I mean you are starting this transformation into big power at 120k w FWD. IF its what you want go for it, I just dont get it... At all.

Enjoy the car, save for an upgrade, something RWD or AWD with 250-300 factory HP. All that GTI power is going to go is get you from 0 - understeer faster.
 
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