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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a new sub and amp that I plan on installing tomorrow. I've heard that when I disconnect my battery I will need a code to reactivate the radio. Where do I get this code?
 

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That, my friend, is complete bullshit. I had my radio disconnected for 4 hours while I ran my wires for my sub and she works just fine. No codes or secrets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah sweet, very good news. I'm entirely new to car audio, so I have a buddy helping me with the install tomorrow and he had some specific questions so I might be hitting you up with those later. One question though, does the head unit have a connection for the 12v lead from the amp?
 

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no. you're going to need to splice into a fuse that gets power with ignition. I am assuming you also have an RCA converter. There aren't RCA outputs on the back of the stock HU. This project for me was a bitch. Search around this site, there is already a DIY thread started on the install. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright, one more quick question I havent found the answer to. Will disconnecting the battery get rid of my APR reflash?
 

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FastAddict said:
Alright, one more quick question I havent found the answer to. Will disconnecting the battery get rid of my APR reflash?
It won't get rid of the APR reflash entirely as it is stored in non-volitile memory. It will however delete all of the volitile memory... (the parameters you have set by the way you drive etc..)

The worst case scenario is that the APR program will go into a psuedo "valet" mode and you will have to re-activate it. Your APR guy should do this gratis.

Sounds like a good excuse to pick up some goodies anyway! O0
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I got the sub installed, and as I expected I'm having some ECU issues from disconnecting the battery after my APR reflash. First, I get an airbag fault code. Second, I know my 93 octane program isn't giving me the performance it did before (it feels like boost is cutting out around 5 grand). I've heard of issues with timing, boost control, etc. arising after disconnecting the battery. Has anyone had to get their ECU reflashed by an APR dealer after already having the reflash (basically, will I have to drop the $700 again....)? Also, would the Throttle Body Alignment program fix this issue if I had to disconnect the battery again to move wires/ amp/ sub around? Sorry for the loaded question...I've searched the forums and I can't find a clear-cut answer for what I'm looking for.
 

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I NEED TO KNOW THE ANSWER TO THAT QUESTION!!!! (not the apr part) i installed my sub almost a week ago, and on my drive home today it threw an airbag fault code... anyone know why b4 i go get raped going to the stealership?
 
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