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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I've finally decided to take the time to get this started.

fxcar03.jpg IMG_2791.jpg IMG_2790.jpg IMG_2796.jpg IMG_0157.jpg

Highlights of the car:

  • 20th Anniversary Edition #201 (of 4000)
  • Black Magic Pearl paint
  • 1.8T with 6 speed transmission
  • 18" OZ Arista wheels
  • Silver trim gauge cluster
  • Golf ball shifter knob
  • Black on black interior
  • Sun/Moon Roof
  • Slightly better suspension (20th/337)
  • 337 front/rear bumpers and side skirts
Here are my current mods:

And the following is the BT kit I'm saving up for:

I found a guy here in Houston that is willing to do the install for all of this whenever I'm ready. The rods will be going in first, then I'll get the kit as SOON as I have the cash saved up. There's over $2000 already put towards this! :) Wish me luck!
 

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I AM IN LOVE WITH YOUR LIST.! Lol whenever you want just take me for a ride lol.
Can't wait for pictures!!!
 

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Thanks man!! :D We'll have to meet up at one of the EAG meets. The next one is on the 7th of Jan, if you're down. Would love to take you for a ride!
Dude I am down! I would love to go in a ride! hahaha!!!
 

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are those typical Revo stg2 numbers?

i have seen dyno sheets of UNI stg2 producing 40hp more and almost 20tq more

http://myfastgti.com/volkswagen/threads/7089-Dyno-Reading
I remember him mentioning at one point that his Dyno reads were a little low from bad plugs or something. I thought his numbers were close to mine and I'm only stage 1 with less mods. He should be pushing close to 230Hp and 280Trq right? I was advised that is a strong Stg 2.
 

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but his numbers are Wheel Horsepower, i was under teh assumption the numbers of ROFLsaurax's were at the crank
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are those numbers SAE corrected with atmospheric adjustments being made as well?

I'm not really sure what numbers I should have with this software. It's an early REVO tuning from 2003 or 2004. Wasn't even called stage 2 back then. They called it the '4-bar REVO', but it's the same requirements as the stage 2 now.

All of the MK4's were dynoing around the same that day, even one with a K04, but he was having some issues, and wasn't putting down his full potential. I'm not sure if it's this dyno or what. It's the 1996 DynoJet. There was one GLI that was a little higher, NOT tuned, lol! He was using the wastegate trick (unscrewing the spring) and was pushing 14psi on a stock tune (dangerous!), but he put down 210whp.

I felt like my numbers seemed low, cuz I've taken on some fast cars and could hang with them no problems. I will use that dyno again after any mods tho, just so I can have accurate comparisons.

I do need to replace my plugs. Don't know if they're bad, but I don't know if they're ever been replaced! o_O What are recommended, btw? I know the gap should be .028, just can't recall the NGK's you guys usually recommend.
 

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NGK Bk7RE im pretty sure thats the correct number
 

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NGK Bk7RE im pretty sure thats the correct number
I ran the BKR7E's for a while and noticed alot of issues. I came back to the performance stock heat range plug BKR6E's and have much better reliability. I asked the shop I got my tune at and they said don't go to the BKR7E's until 250Hp or BT/ K04. Recommendation from them and on most sites is one heat range colder for every 50Hp over 200Hp.

The BKR6E plugs come in copper core (cheap and need replacing every oil change)
-or- BKR6EIX Iridium core plugs (not too expensive and need to be replaced ever 15,000 miles [4-5 oil changes])

These are just NGK plugs though. There are other brands out there.
 

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I ran the BKR7E's for a while and noticed alot of issues. I came back to the performance stock heat range plug BKR6E's and have much better reliability. I asked the shop I got my tune at and they said don't go to the BKR7E's until 250Hp or BT/ K04. Recommendation from them and on most sites is one heat range colder for every 50Hp over 200Hp.

The BKR6E plugs come in copper core (cheap and need replacing every oil change)
-or- BKR6EIX Iridium core plugs (not too expensive and need to be replaced ever 15,000 miles [4-5 oil changes])

These are just NGK plugs though. There are other brands out there.
yea lavi from unitronic and the place i was tuned at both recommended the bk7re, i havent had any problems with mine, but it seems everyone has different opinions and experiences with plugs, i know a lot of people run the bk7re and some use the EX or something, they are irridium. Just experiment
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I couldn't find the BK7RE's here in town. Went to a few shops and they all had the BKR7E's instead... Didn't want to chance getting the wrong plugs until I hear back from some more people.

Volcano, I know you've mentioned plugs before in another post, what did you recommend? I would prefer to not have to change them every 15k-20k miles.
 

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I couldn't find the BK7RE's here in town. Went to a few shops and they all had the BKR7E's instead... Didn't want to chance getting the wrong plugs until I hear back from some more people.

Volcano, I know you've mentioned plugs before in another post, what did you recommend? I would prefer to not have to change them every 15k-20k miles.
It's BKR 7E. [http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BKR7E]

If you want the long term plugs they are item number BKR7E IX [http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BKR7EIX&x=49&y=12]

When ordering or checking with an auto part store ask for the 4 number digit.
BKR7E IX are NGK #2667
BKR7E are NGK #4644
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice, thanks for the info!! Just picked up the 4644's at Oreilly's. They came gapped at .029 (in between .028 and .029 it looks like), will that be an issue? How 'perfect' does the gap need to be? I figure they're fine as they are, however, wanted some feedback to be sure. Thanks!!
 

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Nice, thanks for the info!! Just picked up the 4644's at Oreilly's. They came gapped at .029 (in between .028 and .029 it looks like), will that be an issue? How 'perfect' does the gap need to be? I figure they're fine as they are, however, wanted some feedback to be sure. Thanks!!
I wish my gap was always perfect. When it comes to bending the conductor to match gap, there is almost no way to gaurantee that it's perfect. Try to get it as close as possible to the recommended gap. Between 0.28 and 0.29 is really good. I usually gap my BKR6E's to 0.30, even though 0.32 is stock. I do this because of the power increase from the mods I have. There is a whole seperate scinece in plug gap. You should be square like that though.
 

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yea BFI is a great place

80% of my parts come from mjm, ecs, and BFI

sometimes i get them locally, its just faster
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
these are the 1 i got

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/ngkspplbk1.html

and Rofl ... numbers are on a dyno

look at his thread he is on the dyno and you can see the print out
Nice, thanks for the link, I'll get those in a few thousand miles when I've worn these out. :)

Those dyno numbers are insane for a stage 2 tune, especially since he's on the dyno dynamic brand, they're notorious for giving lower numbers too... That's why I asked if those were SAE and atmospheric adjusted... That would bring them down a bit (I was 206hp/250tq pre-adjusted).

I did do a little research on REVO and it looked like they're not as high as APR or UNI (though, APR gives crank HP on their site). Here's the comparison chart for REVO:

http://products.revotechnik.com/products/softwareProduct.aspx?pvID=1189

The numbers in the little diagram are for the stage 1 tune, stage 2 adds 10%-15% more power, so you're still only looking at about 220-230bhp (crank), which is lower than APR and UNI. I guess my numbers are about where REVO should be according to their site..
 
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