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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I haven't posted much but have been following the forums for a few months now. Several months ago I bought a MKV and have loved it. I noticed that many of you have complained about various rattling parts from time to time. Within the past few weeks, I noticed that my suspension sounds kind of squeaky/rattly when I go over bigger bumps. Is this something that is a common problem and is it serious? It dives fine, so I just wanted to check and see if anyone else has had experienced this. I am still under warranty so I am not real worried either way. Thanks for the help :)
 

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I'm Watching You
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might be the bushing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
would that be something worth checking out? I have a scheduled maintenance coming up and could have them look at it. How would I be able to tell definitively?
 

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cracks in the rubber

squeaking when bounced
 

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The problem is your sub-frame moving and rattling because the stock bolts loosen . It's a widely known issue with MKV's. There is a TSB for it, but the common DIY fix is to replace the 6 main sub-frame bolts with Passat sub-frame bolts. I've done this with my car - it's very easy and will cost around $15.
 

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The problem is your sub-frame moving and rattling because the stock bolts loosen . It's a widely known issue with MKV's. There is a TSB for it, but the common DIY fix is to replace the 6 main sub-frame bolts with Passat sub-frame bolts. I've done this with my car - it's very easy and will cost around $15.
Man I didnt even know about this. THX
 

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In june I bought my 06 mkv with 69K miles from an import dealer with 2 bald tires on it. after I complained for a few minutes they agreed to pay for 1 tire and a driver side axle boot... But they gave me a great deal heavily discounted and wrote me a check for 1700 dollars as a part of the negotiated deal before the parts. So in escence I wasnt complaining. Although the car was in good shape it needed some attention... developing fuel cut and missing boost gauge in steering wheel mount???
First I called vw hotline and they made me aware of a ignition coil recall and I got new free coils ^yay^
The axle boot: my mechanic said axle was trash but the tear in the boot was on the smaller side and retained grease and wasnt contaminated. he just couldnt/didnt want to do the reboot. So I got a china axle from DBC performance and had it replaced in the meantime I found a handy porsche/VW shop that would do the reboot on my removed oem axle for 40 dollars. The china axle has been working fine with no noise or flaw. So I have a spare oem axle when I need it ^yay^
Find a good mechanic that doesnt cringe when you say GTI
After worring about why the gauge was gone I finally installed a new south gauge and was pleased to see strong consistant boost and healthy vacuum ^yay^
Then the suspension rattles started... I got underneathe the car and put my hands on things and could find it. A couples days later got worse so again underneath and found a broken "connecting rod" that connects the sway bar to the shock assembly. advance auto parts 30 dollars, it has a hex bolt instead of M6 triple square. What broke it? the car has h&R springs and koni shocks so either the mechanic broke it during axle removal a few days prior or 1 of 2 memorable potholes I ran over. but soon after the rattle came back ^arg^ I spent weeks searching for it and concluded it was the driver side front shock mount and/or shock mount bearing. then 2 days ago I was under the car and found that the connecting rod upper bolt had come un torqued and was loose. took it back to the mechanic and he re-torqued the bolt with some loc-tite and I am rattle free! ^yay^
Took it to 1/8th mile drag strip broke already worn tranny mount which had been already replaced sometime prior to my purchase of the car. replaced. ran 7.2 though.
When cold there is always some cluth chatter in 1st gear but it goes away. But the out of state dealer that originally sold and serviced the car said they replace 5th & 6th gear??? but it grinds into 6th everytime.
Two weeks ago changed oil, put in redline MT syn tranny fluid, cleaned and reoiled air intake filter and some iridium plugs. Grind still there but not as bad and overall shifting was improved. Now with WOT misfire. I removed spent double platium plugs from the car prior to the iridiums so I went back to the store and put in some new double platinums and misfire went away^yay^ Although boost is good, peaks at 12 settles to 10.5 lbs I lost 1 lb of vacuum after the service, 22 lbs normal now at 21 lbs. . It doesnt appear to be leaking. So at this point I dont know where that pound of vacuum went
As far as the loose subframe goes understand that alignment is fixed on GTI's but there is some room for adjustment by releasing subframe bolts and moving subframe. To me the fact that suspension geometry is embedded to the chassis is the secret to the GTI being an engaging drive and automobile magazine's choice for best handling front wheel drive car. But... the subframe bolts are a one time use and should be replaced if removed. A fix to a loose subframe is using audi subframe bolts which are stronger and more robust but I have read that VW bolts will strech. But...you can diagnose loose subframe by searching for rub marks on perimeter of subframe. And steering pump assembly is connected to subframe and can also be diagnosed by the steering wheel being cocked to left or right. Toe adjustment can be adjusted with out moving subframe though.
So far in conclusion there are more ^yays^ than ^args^ find a shop that cares and go fast!
 

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oh yea the fuel cut! Called the dealer and they said they never replaced the cam follower and I was @ 70k. Got a cam follower at DBC and pulled fuel pump off and the follower was shredded with a big gaping whole in it ^arg^ after replaced fuel cuts went away. Changing this part every 15-20k is recomended IMO
 

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My car is just over 40k. I plan on driving up to Blackforest Industries sometime and letting them drop in a new cam follower. I am reasonably mechanically inclined, but I feel that this is over my head.
 

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My car is just over 40k. I plan on driving up to Blackforest Industries sometime and letting them drop in a new cam follower. I am reasonably mechanically inclined, but I feel that this is over my head.
It's easy man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I picked up some Jetta bolts and am going to put them on as soon as I get a chance to go home. (Way over in Buffalo, NY so it might be awhile; I am in CT now.) I don't have any of the stuff to do it here. :( I will keep you guys posted when it gets done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yo so another quick question, when I go to replace these bolts, do I need to take the load off the wheels? Or can I just drive it up some ramps, crawl under it and do it without worrying it will crash down on my face. Lol that would be rather unpleasant. After looking at them, it looks like that shouldn't be a problem, I am just not sure.
 

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Yo so another quick question, when I go to replace these bolts, do I need to take the load off the wheels? Or can I just drive it up some ramps, crawl under it and do it without worrying it will crash down on my face. Lol that would be rather unpleasant. After looking at them, it looks like that shouldn't be a problem, I am just not sure.
I will consult my vw service manual when i get home, you should be able to ebay a cd-rom service manual for about 10 dollars
 

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I will consult my vw service manual when i get home, you should be able to ebay a cd-rom service manual for about 10 dollars
to remove subframe plate it says to:
remove pendulum support from tranny.
then remove bolts for steering gear, stabalizer bar and subframe.
to remove the plate it self is gonna be a hassle but I imagine if you do one bolt at a time it should not be a big deal but it will more than likely need an alignment. the service manual did say a support is needed to remove the stabilizer bar though. Proper torque on these bolts is pretty vital. I also read only the load bearing bolts in this situation need to replaced.
 
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