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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's the Photo album.

The head unit won't power on. I'm certain it's because of the faulty C2R-VW2 box. However I've heard a lot of people tell me that there is a way to bypass the blue box. These are the photos of my setup. Can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
 

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ok picture are good but its just a bunch of wires

what i suggest is, remove the blue box (i dont know where that box goes connected)

connect all speakers

after that the only important wires will be the yellow, red and black

black goes to ground, test if you have good ground with a test light

if you do. get a long wire and plug it to the + on the battery

connect both red and yellow to that and radio should turn on

if so then your radio is good

dont remember which wire (red or yellow) is constant + and which is switched +

but run constant + from harness adapter that connects to the OEM harness

the one that looks like this http://enfigcarstereo.com/70_9003.html

then switch power you can get from an accessory like horn, sunroof etc.

i used a wire form the ignition switch with allows you to use the radio 1hr after turning the car off and turns off when you open the door

like the stock radio does but i can not fine the the DIY that was on vortex since the switch of forums

and im too busy to go take my car apart to look at the wire but it ill work with the horn or sunroof
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok picture are good but its just a bunch of wires

what i suggest is, remove the blue box (i dont know where that box goes connected)

connect all speakers

after that the only important wires will be the yellow, red and black

black goes to ground, test if you have good ground with a test light

if you do. get a long wire and plug it to the + on the battery

connect both red and yellow to that and radio should turn on

if so then your radio is good

dont remember which wire (red or yellow) is constant + and which is switched +

but run constant + from harness adapter that connects to the OEM harness

the one that looks like this http://enfigcarstereo.com/70_9003.html
What "battery" are you talking about? The car's battery? So this means I need to have a [black/ground?] wire going through my firewall?

did you wire it to your remote?
I'm assuming that's a joke? Unless there's something else in there called a "remote". lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
facepalm... this is why you shouldnt do a headunit install if you have no idea what your doing.
mhm. too many people telling me "all you gotta do is connect the same colored wires". From the photos, these people can easily see that I've done that. lol. I've wanted it professionally soldered and wire-managed since day one. I just don't have the moolah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Here are the paths of the:

Yellow wires

Black wires

Red wires

There is no Red wire coming from the harness adapter. It only comes from the backside of the head unit [as seen in the photo]
 

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mhm. too many people telling me "all you gotta do is connect the same colored wires". From the photos, these people can easily see that I've done that. lol. I've wanted it professionally soldered and wire-managed since day one. I just don't have the moolah.
thats for speaker hook up... but under your dash there is a distributor that has a couple numbers. find the number that corrilates to the non constant 12 and plug the radio wire into it... you will probably have to extend the wire.. do your research before you rip apart your car. ive installed 2 headunits in my car. both connected to said distributor block.
 

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get rid of the wiring for the blue thing. i only bought it for the harness... you dont use the blue thing... neither of my headunits use the blue thing. there is a spot under the dash for the red wire. but yellow and black are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so before I start "ripping apart" my dash looking for a distributor block that I've probably never seen before, can I get a little info on how to access it? googling "vw gti distributor block" has come back with crappy results.

Since it's "under my dash", does that just mean I unscrew the single screw that seems to be holding up the plastic casing that's covering everything around my OBD2 plug?
 

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so before I start "ripping apart" my dash looking for a distributor block that I've probably never seen before, can I get a little info on how to access it? googling "vw gti distributor block" has come back with crappy results.

Since it's "under my dash", does that just mean I unscrew the single screw that seems to be holding up the plastic casing that's covering everything around my OBD2 plug?
your underdash is 2 peices.... theres 3 screws and then it pops out after you take off your fuse box

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?967146

this tells you how to remove the lower dash peice

then

Look up under the dashboard at the fuse panel. You will see several threaded connectors here. This is where you will get your 12v sources and ground. The stud marked 75x supplies SWITCHED (remote connect red wire) 12v. The studs marked 30 (either one) will supply CONSTANT 12v (yellow wire but the way you have it is fine).

the bottom of the picture with the colors... thats where you tap into with the 75x port. should be the yellow on to the left. (dont mind markings there off other diy pictures)

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just to clarify, what does "remote wire" even mean? Is it the red wire itself, or is it a type of wiring?

I guess I'll stop by Radio Shack for some coated copper wire, in order to extend my red wire?

and where the hell can I get a 1-rated fuse?! radio shack, frys, and best buy all tell me to visit each other. Local audio shops are no help! GRRRR. [suicide]
 

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Just to clarify, what does "remote wire" even mean? Is it the red wire itself, or is it a type of wiring?

I guess I'll stop by Radio Shack for some coated copper wire, in order to extend my red wire?
yeah that should work... but remote means only on when ignition is on... if you have ever installed subs + amp its the wire you connect so your amp isnt on when your car is off. headunits are the same way

but when you go to radioshack tell them remote wire. its a certain gauge etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Look up under the dashboard at the fuse panel. You will see several threaded connectors here. This is where you will get your 12v sources and ground. The stud marked 75x supplies SWITCHED (remote connect red wire) 12v.

the bottom of the picture with the colors... thats where you tap into with the 75x port. should be the yellow on to the left. (dont mind markings there off other diy pictures)
I assume you're talking about the "bar of color" at the bottom of the first photo? visual> |yellow|red|red|black|

does that mean I clamp the remote wire in the green circle of vvvthisvvv photo? I understand you said to disregard the markings, but that seems to be the "yellow 75x port" that you're talking about.
 

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I assume you're talking about the "bar of color" at the bottom of the first photo? visual> |yellow|red|red|black|

does that mean I clamp the remote wire in the green circle of vvvthisvvv photo? I understand you said to disregard the markings, but that seems to be the "yellow 75x port" that you're talking about.
correct
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for all the help. I'll be sure to update how things turn out.

Have you ever blown a fuse in your harness adapter? I'm calling up every nearby electronics store and I really can't find a 1amp fuse. The smallest I can find is a 3amp and I don't think that's a logical replacement...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just paid $15 for two 1-amp fuses that will hopefully arrive in 3-5days :sleep:

Why am I always the one with the rare/unique problems[pissed]
 

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dude, i'm not sure what everyone else was looking at, but here's your problem... you have bare wire exposed on at least your red (switched power) wire... that'll blow a fuse as soon as it touches anything... and as for the "blue box" that nobody really seems to know what it is... it generates switched power so you don't have to "run it to a distribution block". everything looked correct, but don't let bare wire hang out to short out and blow fuses... for that matter, don't let any bare wire be exposed... period.
 

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dude, i'm not sure what everyone else was looking at, but here's your problem... you have bare wire exposed on at least your red (switched power) wire... that'll blow a fuse as soon as it touches anything... and as for the "blue box" that nobody really seems to know what it is... it generates switched power so you don't have to "run it to a distribution block". everything looked correct, but don't let bare wire hang out to short out and blow fuses... for that matter, don't let any bare wire be exposed... period.
clearly your wrong if it is wired right and it didnt work dumb dumb
 
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