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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fellas (and ladies should they exist),

I am going to be getting my '01 VR6 ready to rock in the next couple of months, and I was wondering what all I should do, as far as maintenance and good measure.

Plans:

Tune-up:
Purple oil change (including purple filter if they make it for the VR6?)
Master brake cylinder (see previous post... having to add fluid a lot with no visible leak)
K&N air filter (stock fit one for now... upgrade intake later?)
Need new sparks (Any suggestions ? Links to other threads/sites ?)

Engine:
Complete Exhaust system (with option to go turbo in the future??) (not too loud, not too much rattle... clean sound with clear power.. suggestions?)
Chip to rid the throwing of emissions codes ;)

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After engine work:
Body:
Boser hood (Need more links, these things are kinda hard to find.. found this one)
New grille
Body kit (not too aggressive, better to have curves and look sleek than look rigid and fake)
Projection halo lights
Black outs over already installed clear tails
Rims (at some point...)

Interior:
UK headlight selector (for fog light)
Dynamat alternative (zillamat.com) around entire car for sound dampening
Kicker Component speakers (already have these, need to learn how to remove the panels)
Custom sub box for a low end kicker c10 (building this myself)
Others ? Suggestions?
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I really want to get the engine running awesome before I start in on the body/interior.

All suggestions welcome, and I will be posting videos (some how-to's) for most of the things I do myself :)

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh, and complete fluid blowout:

Trans
Coolant
Engine (listed above)
Enything else recommended?

Also, I will probably shop it for the water pump/timing belt change.
 

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First. There is a sticky thread at the top of the mkiv forum page with great ideas for mods you can do to your vr6. Second. I have a vr6 as well; PLEASE don't turbo it. If you want a turbo get a vw with one already and chip it. In my opinion the vr6 is a great car as it is and can go fast without any mention of a turbo. I love the sound of the engine and with a new exhaust (even just a muffler) it will kick major ass. But seriously go to the sticky thread and read up, there are a lot of VERY knowledgeable people on this forum who know too much about vw's haha. I don't have too many posts on the forum but I've been a lurker for a while and the search function is your best friend. Just my 2cents.
 

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Car has 130,000 miles and almost 10 years old... Save your mod money, enjoy your VR and upgrade to a 2.0T when you can afford it :) You are going to be fighting a losing battle w mods vs maintainence if you start now. Trust me......

Take care of the brakes and save for the next fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I love this body style, moreso than any of the others... so..

Also, I have a 97 Honda Accord with 263k... and still running strooong... if that is any indication of Preventative Maintenance success... IDK what is...

I bought this car with the full intent of making it a joy rider.. not an everyday beater (hence the honda), so for the most part... I want to bring it back to full life... if it needs a new engine after 100k.. so be it.
 

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Tear it apart and replace tb, coolant pump, accesory belt, wires, all the usual suspects. Royal purple doesnt seem to do well in some cars. They got a bad rap lately, gummin everything up under the valve cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oh yea ?

well damn...

What can you say, if at all, about the Royal Purple Transmission Fluid and Coolant stuff (Purple ICE) ?
 

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Heres a few about the motor oil:

I used to use RP for everything, then I noticed that the oil actually foams, which for an oil is a really bad thing... I would actually see bubbles on the dipstick when I would check my oil.... after seeing that, and reading about AMSoil, I have since switched to AMSoil and love it....

Common knowledge among previous users such as myself that Royal Purple is crap oil. I've only lost one engine ever (4G63 in my 1998 Eclipse) and it was while using Royal Purple. In fact that summer three people I know (including me) all spun rod bearings using that oil. I have never used it again and never will. I tried Amsoil once with my SRT-4 and it was the only time that car ever used oil between an oil change. The main reason I stick to Mobil 1 is that it just works and is proven. I don't care about the ads showing private lab results or guys claiming hp gains on a dyno.

just thought id share my experiences with you guys, i have a few customers that run royal purple and ran into the same problem. they all burn oil rather quickly. had a s2000 come in with valve train noise, dealer said it was the timing chain tensioner, but when i looked it over, it was 4qts low on oil. he was using royal purple, 6k miles burned 4 qts.
last week i had a sti come in he said hes low a quart of oil every 2-3 days, also using royal purple. no oil leaks so changed the oil and let him go. did a follow-up call today and the new oil completely fixed the problem.
just thought you guys might like to know....i know a lot of people like royal purple and have no problems but i wouldnt use it....

Now a couple for the Purple ice

After mixing it with MB coolant this is what happens. You get this gunk clogging your radiator, your heater core, coating all your rubber hoses, clogging up your thermostat and ultimately blowing up your radiator. Two in my case...my brand new Behr blew up too. 50 flushes so far and I cannot get it out. On my 2nd radiator blowing up after being used for 1.5 months- my head gasket went with it as well.
Seeing the Royal Purple Purple ICE ad prompted me to do this.

HI just wondering if anyone else has had this issue? Ever since I added this additive my MB factory coolant which used to be orange turned into a thick brown and white sludge. Its clogged everything. From the insides or the rubber tubes to a huge glob wrapped around my coolant temperature sensor. It got to the point where my aux fans do not even turn on anymore with my car and the engine temp reached almost to the 120 mark. I think I have to take out my CTS to clean. That old one which I thought failed was coated with the grease like substance. I put in a new one and it worked for a bit and then same results. I flushed the radiator and cooling system 17 times now. Sometimes using water and twice with sodium citrate cleaner. Ran water in the car for some time until it stayed clear. Then I replaced the dirty gunked up coolant tank with a brand new Febi reservoir that was clear. Refilled with orange MB coolant. After a week...the new tank is now coated in white grease and is not clear anymore. The coolant is thick white. Cant seem to flush this crap outta the entire system. I did everything with the heater on high to get residual stuff out of the heater core.
Royal Purple guy who I emailed back in June about this problem says their stuff is 100% compatiable with everything on the market. I dont he should make such a broad statement. As I did some research and this does the same thing in Audi's when added to their coolant. Thick brown sludge.
I forgot to mention I tried MTI's advice of using Dawn dishwashing liquid soap. It did work to remove a majority of the gunk out of the engine block channels but not out of the heatercore.
just wondering if anyone else has had this issue using Purple Ice or Redline Water Wetter?
I tried to call Royal Purple Friday but the tech guys were off early. CS was still there. Will have to try on Monday and see if they will pay for this. I spent a lot of money already changing the CTS and Coolant Reservoir tank and doing the flushes. Even my Thermostat is coated with this grease like gunk.

These are not my opinions or statements, just a few independant accounts. I dont use it and I never will. I am not saying its bad, but it dont look good for Rp. Some people swear by it, and some people swear it ruined their car, blew head gaskets, spun rod bearings, clogged everything up or whatever. Its up to you though man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well there you go...

I traditionally use Penzoil Platinum SYN.... Maybe I will just stick with that... lol
 

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are your timing chains making noise yet? might be a good idea to pull the timing chain cover off and look at the upper guides to see if they are shot.

best upgrades IMO for the vr6, ~268 cams + springs + retainers, header back exhaust (stock headers flow really well), and chip, call it a day because the vr6 head design is a major bottle neck.

as far as maintance, replace the timing chains and guides when you do the cams, replace the "crack pipe" with either a oem replacement or a aftermarked aluminum one, water pump and thermostat is a good idea aswell. make sure to use g12 or whatever coolant your car calls for, and see if the PO used it or put normal anti-freeze in there if so you will need to flush the system really well before adding g12 or the recommended coolant.

I ran 5w40 in mine to help with lifter noise.
 

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Complete Exhaust system (with option to go turbo in the future??) (not too loud, not too much rattle... clean sound with clear power.. suggestions?)
Chip to rid the throwing of emissions codes ;)

VR6's sounds so sexy =] i would get a milltek test pipe back... run no cat for better noise =]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
are your timing chains making noise yet? might be a good idea to pull the timing chain cover off and look at the upper guides to see if they are shot.
I haven't begun to analyze the engine.. is it hard/tedious to pull of the timing chain cover ?

~268 cams + springs + retainers, header back exhaust (stock headers flow really well), and chip, call it a day
Noted. Any links to some good products ?

as far as maintance, replace the timing chains and guides when you do the cams, replace the "crack pipe" with either a oem replacement or a aftermarked aluminum one, water pump and thermostat is a good idea aswell.
Good info! What is this "crack pipe"

use g12 or whatever coolant your car calls for, and see if the PO used it or put normal anti-freeze in there if so you will need to flush the system really well before adding g12 or the recommended coolant.
Is the G12 pink, I think that is what is already in there ?

I ran 5w40 in mine to help with lifter noise.
5w vs 10 ?
 

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I haven't begun to analyze the engine.. is it hard/tedious to pull of the timing chain cover ? ?
no, well maybe.. Its not too hard but just make sure to mark any connectors you diconnect to ease assymbly. and have some insta gasket stuff to seal the corner joints when you put it back on.

picture You will not need to go this far in dismantle as I was replacing the headgasket on mine. circled are the upper timing chain guides, the arow points to the long plastic pipe that runs the lenght of the front of the engine and is notorios for cracking and leaking coolant. aftermarket aluminum ones are available


Noted. Any links to some good products ?

techtonics tuning valve springs/retainers
several companies make the cams or regrinds, search around alittle to decide you price range/needs
several aftermarket exhaust options, I had custom 2 1/4 to 2 1/2" system.

5w vs 10 ?

http://www.ehow.com/about_6736947_5w_40-vs_-10w_40-motor-oil.html

I used 5w 40 because of the median between to thin and too thick, vr6 likes hotter operating temps which can be achieved using the g12 coolant and distilled water mixture because of the raised boiling point/air bubble forming reistance. best performance is achieved around 190-200 degrees F coolant temp for the street. with upgraded cam and valve springs it is not unusaul to get more lifter noise and the 5w helped in my case. Full synthetic of course. always
 
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