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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I went ahead and bought my first new vw I've owned a few older vw bugs. I have an 02 golf gti 1.8t I just purchased from a local here in vermont. I got it for a pretty good price so I thought. I noticed it had a few boost leaks before purchasing it......commen for boosted cars. Anyways this is my problem..... I dug out my old boost leak tester from my honda days and hooked it all up and ran a test and sure enough I found about 5 leaks right away...previous own claims the car has an ultronic chip and tune and the car is boosted to 20 psi and has had a cam job done and forge diverter. So anyways I fixed up the boost leaks and bingo 20 psi on the dot. Ran great too and nice and fast. Came out the next morning and fired up the car and suddenly I have a cell.... check engine light popped right on. So I went down and bought a vag com and ran the codes.....Codes as followed,,P0031...P0445..P0418...P0414...P2400..P0102I went and purchased a book from the local auto parts store and that things just about worthless as far as finding what the codes mean and what's causing them. It did not have any codes prior to me fixing all the leaks. If anyone can help that would be great because I don't wanna just throw money at it and hope I fix it. Also I know p0445 comes up as a big leak detected and retested for leaks and found that the factory wastegate was pissing air from around the rod so I reached down to see what that was all about and the rod snapped in half it was so rusted thanks to all the salts used here in vt on the roads. So I removed the wastegate and have a new one on the way right now. How do I rematch the oem spec setting for this since the previous rod is boke and there isn't a way to duplicate the aproximent turns that was on the rod?*
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So I checked every fuse on the car with a test light and a meter. Everything checked out fine. Started looking around and didn't find any bare wires. I replaced the maf ($270) and both oxygen sensors (70 $)(150$) and erased and reset the computer via vag. Still same codes popped up. Now I have actually 8 codes all surrounding evap sh*t and I looked at the n80 valve which was working at one point and is now not working at all. I checked the power plug going to it and the plug doesn't have any power key on and off and running wtf? Anyone know what that's all about and how I can get my n80 power back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you check the relays and fuses in the relay box next to the battery?
Yes everything seems to appear ok. Visually and with a test light. I started looking around and also found that the n80 valve and the evap pump by the gas tank share the same blue with yellow strip wire and neither have any power to them and are not working at all with the key on or car running. I'm at a total loss of what has caused this to happen. Do they run off the sane relay and if so which one or am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok for the people who have this same issue as mine. Remove the rear passenger fender well and unplug the evap lesk detection pump clamp both rubber lines off not the hard plastic ones and start the car. It will run rough and smell horrible. Once u do this it will cause the o2 sensor to read fault and shut it off plug the evap leak detection pump back in and clear codes and start the car with the hoses still clamped off run it and ur codes will or should be gone. If they are not gone then pull the fuel pump relay start it...shouldn't start then repeat the above. This worked for my car and was suggested by a vw mechanic. It has something to do with some code s that hardlined themselves into the ecm? Not sure. He also recommended to do an evap delete on the charcole canister and cap off the lines. I decided to do the delete and worked great for me and now I won't have any returning codes do to evap leaks and my o2's still funtion properly. This might not be a work up that everyone agrees with but it worked for me and saved me a lot of time and money and fixed my issues. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the follow up.
No problem I seen that a lot of people leave post unfinished on here. Figured it would be nice to have some what of an answer the the problem. I have now had the evap delete done on my car for roughly a week now and have put well over 600 miles on it and have had no issues and to be honest this is the best the car has ever ran. Smooth fast and no low end lag at all
 
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