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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Things you'll need to get (I got all this at Advanced Auto Parts):
1- Pair of "Optx LED sticks" (whatever color you want. I chose red)
1- Accessory switch of your choice (preferably one that has an indicator light that power is on)
1- spool of multi-colored wire (red, black, green. etc...)
1- Electrical tape
1- bag of 4" zip ties (one of man's best inventions)
3- terminals to crimp onto the wires running to the accessory switch

You'll need T-20, T-25, and T-30 drivers to remove the screws holding the front bumper. A crimper or needle-nose pliers, a sharp knife to cut a hole through the firewall's rubber grommet. 10mm socket to disconnect battery terminals.

Directions:
1) Begin by removing the two screws above the grille, then remove the two screws at the bottom of the grille on each side of the license plate. At this point all screws have been removed from the black grille. The only thing holding it in place still is the plastic snaps at the top of the grille. Go ahead and remove the grille. You'll see two gray screws on the top middle portion of the bumper once the grille is removed, leave those for last.

2) Get underneath your ride and and remove the screws that are holding the protective skid plate. There's two plastic snaps to push up on to remove it. Then remove all the screws on the bottom of the bumper.

3) There's 5 screws on the left and right side fender-well area that need to be removed. For ease of removal, turn the wheel all the way to the left and remove the right fender-well screws. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and remove the left fender-well screws.

4) At this point, the only thing holding the bumper in place should be those two screws I told you earlier to leave alone. Go ahead and remove them.

5) On both the left and right side the bumper slides into two "puzzle" grooves. All you gotta do is pull the bumper away from the GTI and the bumper will slide right off (you may have to give a few tugs, but don't pull too hard cuz look at the next step).

6) IMPORTANT!!! Make sure you have a 1 gallon jug nearby because once the bumper is removed, you'll need to unsnap the plastic retainer clip that's holding the tube connecting to the windshield washer fluid motor on the canister (passenger side). Drain the fluid. DO NOT LOSE THAT RETAINER!!!

7) Unsnap the turn signal bulbs and fog light wire harness'. Your bumper should be completely free of the vehicle now.


8 ) Clean area where the LED bars will be mounted. Remove the film protecting the sticky 3M's on the light bars. Here's a pic of where I mounted mine (in my opinion it's about the only spot you can get them)

They are placed so the wire-side of the bars piggy-back to the driver's side (both bars' wires are facing left).

9) Once both LED bars are in place, use zip ties the reinforce that the light bars will stay in place. Be careful not to cover up any of the LED's though. And run the LED bar to the right underneath the zip ties that are holding the left LED bar in place (for a cleaner install).



10) Cut the wires so they are both the same length. Combine the two positive wires together, and combine the two negatives together. Now leave this alone for the time being...we're shifting gears.

11) Remove the battery. I KNOW, it's a pain the butt (especially if you got extra wires coming off of it). This is the only way to snake the wires through the firewall.

12) I used red+, black-, and green (accessory) wires, and I placed a heatsink tube around the end I was going to push through the firewall so all the wires make it through easily (you don't have to do this but I recommend it). Make a few cuts in the firewall's rubber grommet area where all the wires are going through. Then snake your wires through the hole you made.

I ran the green wire around and under the fuse box area so it's out of sight. You'll be able to easily see it underneath the driver's side headlight.


13) Connect the red, green, and black wires to their prospective terminals on the accessory switch you bought (I'm throwing this step in here now so you can test the LED's before you go through all the hassle of mounting the switch). It is a good idea to place some electrical tape around the black and red terminals just for peace of mind (wouldn't want an electrical fire would we?).


14) Reinstall the battery, but don't put on the plastic coverings yet. Connect the red+ and black- wires to their prospective battery terminals.

15) Ok, back to the bumper. Get the bumper fairly close to the front of the vehicle. Run that accessory wire to the two combined positive wires of the LED bars. I used electrical tape to cover the connection and then placed a zip tie over that (think "weather the elements"). Cut another piece of black wire long enough to run it from the negative LED wires to a bolt that connects to the frame of the car (or just something that's metal on metal). At this point, all wires are safely in place (double check your connections). Flip the switch and your LED's should be glowin' purty.



16) Now reconnect the turn signal bulbs, the fog light wire harness', and the washer tube (with that almighty plastic retainer). Now put the bumper back in place. I needed the help of a buddy in order to get the "puzzle" grooves on both sides of the bumper to go back in place. I put the screws that connected the top corners of both sides of the bumper back on first to hold it in place, then I put the two gray screws on the top portion of the bumper. Then put the rest back on in no particular order.

17) There's a few options for switch mounting locations inside the vehicle. I chose to put my switch down by that bulge in the floor to the left of my driver's seat. Placing it next to the traction control button just looked tacky in my opinion. There's a separate DIY for mounting the switch if you want it in the same location as this.


Peace,

SD
 

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I am not normally into the adding light scene, but damn if that doesn't look good. Excellent write up. Great detail, and easy to follow. I may have to add those on my fast. Thanks.
 

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I sat silently in the background as you talked about your little project with the lights, because, honestly, I thought it was ricey... and I have so far, respect for you and nothing against you. I just wanted to be nice. Now that I see the finished product I must say I'm rather surprised. I actually like it, it looks pretty good. Not something to have on while your driving and stuff, cause I think that's a bit on the rice side. But if you're ever at a car meet or whatever, it would be a pretty cool feature to turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's the main reason I did it is for when I show off my ride. I also think it would be cool to have to mess around with people wanting to race. Let them get ahead of you just enough for them to see the red LED's light up and floor it like a bat-outta-hell >:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BlueFrogPosse said:
Don't go losing races just so you can show off the grille.
SpeeDemon doesn't loose >:D
 

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dude w/ those lights and ur diverter valve ur GTI gotta b crazy mean looking and sounding
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #12
kryptonkid07 said:
SpeeDemon said:
GTfly said:
just dont let the cops see it :D
So if you get caught racing... will they go easy on you?
The other guy involved would thank me cuz he'd have to be let off the hook too. Wouldn't look good in court :-X
 

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SpeeDemon said:
kryptonkid07 said:
SpeeDemon said:
GTfly said:
just dont let the cops see it :D
Dude, I am the cops 8) LCSO baby!
So if you get caught racing... will they go easy on you?
The other guy involved would thank me cuz he'd have to be let off the hook too. Wouldn't look good in court :-X
I'd rag both your asses anyway [fish] O0
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dragon said:
SpeeDemon said:
kryptonkid07 said:
GTfly said:
just dont let the cops see it :D
So if you get caught racing... will they go easy on you?
The other guy involved would thank me cuz he'd have to be let off the hook too. Wouldn't look good in court :-X
I'd rag both your asses anyway [fish] O0
If you can catch me ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's why it's wired to a switch...I don't drive with it on unless I'm showing off the ride.
 

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I don't get it. Does the honeycomb grill snap on over top of the horizontal lights? Is the last image the final look? If so it looks a bit unfinished to me. Maybe some black paint on the silver horizontal strips would help. I think it would look better with the honeycomb in front.

Great presentation of the DIY. You are giving scans a run for his money.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
uncle dude said:
I don't get it. Does the honeycomb grill snap on over top of the horizontal lights? Is the last image the final look? If so it looks a bit unfinished to me. Maybe some black paint on the silver horizontal strips would help. I think it would look better with the honeycomb in front.

Great presentation of the DIY. You are giving scans a run for his money.
Lol, those "silver horizontal strips" your talking about is my intercooler. The two LED light bars are attatched behind the bumper and aimed to illuminate the intercooler. The honeycomb grille insert was removed to promote maximum air flow/cooling.
 

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^^ I told you I didn't get it, and now you know the reason I generally don't comment on modifications! :eek:

Did you see what it looked like with the honeycomb back in?
 

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The honeycomb blocks how much air?!?! [fish] you're not serious are you?

I'm with Uncle Dude. Reinstall the honeycomb on top. Its a cleaner look. Besides at night the light will still shine thru
 
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